Day 19: Radicofani to Sutri: 73m(117kms)
Total to date: 1246m(2005kms)
Early morning mist. Or was it cloud? As we prepared to set off together, we climbed up to the highest point of the village, to the castle (which was closed!) but we were rewarded with amazing views over the countryside. The level of cloud was beneath us, giving a curious perspective to everything we looked down on.
Natural phenomena. Sometimes, something catches my eye and I brake hard, pull over and get out the camera. This can be a little risky on a busy road. Here you see a field full of spider’s webs glistening in the morning sunlight, and a roadside post covered with snails. Fascinating.
Bolsena Cathedral. Bolsena is situated next to a huge lake of the same name. A great inland site for many water-sports, including swimming. But the Cathedral (Il Duomo) caught my attention in particular. You could see three layers of history in its construction: the catacombs of the 4th century, the medieval parts and then those added in the 17th century. But it all blended together extremely well.
The great descent. From a 1000m above sea level, we had a great descent first thing in the morning, but we had to descend through the cloud, and visibility was down to a few metres, especially if you were wearing glasses! I enjoyed the coolness before the heat of the day set in. Filipe, on the other hand, (like a butterfly) needs sun and heat to get himself going, so didn’t enjoy the descent so much.
Sutri. As I entered the town walls, I encountered the place I was looking for: a Carmelite Convent that provided beds for pilgrims. What I hadn’t bargained on was the fact it was an enclosed order, and all communication took place through a grille, and passports and money were handed over through a covered turntable. Our rooms were located in a separate building, and gave us easy access to the town which, like Lucca, was celebrating its patronale. (And we thought the music was to celebrate our arrival!)